Thursday, 24 July 2008

Au revoir Nepal

Yesterday I did my lat mad escape in nepal. I got talking to one of the street musicians called Kermal and he told me of the group of players he belonged to from his village who play traditional music. He said they put on a concert between 5 and 7 every evening and as this was 6pm I said I had a few minutes to spare.
I following down this back alley and up ome stairs to a room at the top of the building. I did warn him that if he planned to mug me - I didn't have much money and I carry a pretty hefty right hook.
Anyway we got there and there were about 5/6 men who played their music for me and danced their traditional dance - it was lovely but what a mad thing to do on your own!!

Sorry Mam

Had dinner with Karen from Netherlands who comes here regularly to buy stock for her shop,then went back to the hotel and chatted to an American guy who showed my all his photos on his laptop of Everest - they were awesome.

Talked to Ceri and Rubes so all is well and I'm now just about to leave for the airport.

I will come back to Nepal when the weather is clear and I can really take in the spectacular sights of this amzing country.

Bye for now, Love to all

Sue.xxxxxxxxxxxx

Back to Kathmandu

The 'Nepali way' can be a little trying at times to say the least. Left at 8.15 in plenty of time to catch the bus/jeep down the mountain as the tourist bus was due around 9.30/10 am. In Bandipur I get on the bus as I'm told it will leave 1st and then am informed that the buses are on strike today. "What about the jeep" "No jeep!"
I walk back to the hotel as I'm sure Ram or Tony, a londoner who owns the hotel, will help. I had a long chat with Tony last night and this morning but that's another story!. Anyway Ram comes and arranges the jeep which normally costs 25 rupees or 300 if you take it to yourself and we set off at 9am with full jeep - he also sends a young lad with me - thank God. Just about a half mile before we reach Dumre, the lad and the driver start arguing over the cost - driver wants 400 rupees and I only have 300 (which he's not getting!) We spend the next 10 minutes arguing (and my time is ticking to catch the tourist bus) but eventually it's resolved (how - I don't know nor care!)and we arrive at Dumre.

While I'm waiting for the bus, people keep telling me that the 'buses are on strike -NO BUS!' But I know Ram rang the bus and he definitely said it was on it's way. 2 hours later and it finally arrives - Phew!! Off we go and then stop at Mugling where the students are protesting (do they need a reason?) and preventing any traffic from going through. And NO there are no alternate routes - one road in - one road out. Eventually they let us tourist buses go through and 5 hours later I arrive in Kathmandu - I certainly won't miss the Nepali transport.
I shared a taxi with an Israeli guy and a couple from China and back at the hotel I'm given a room which overlooks the garden for the same rate I had before - I feel honoured.
Had coffee after dinner with a Scotsman who was so full of himself, I didn't even ask his name. A dutch woman who buys stuff here for her shop joined us and asked if we'd like to join her for dinner tomorrow night (being today) but if he's going I think I'll give it a miss.

Today is my last full day in Nepal so am just sorting things out, packing and making sure I have enough rupees to last me and leave (it costs 1700 rupees tax to go).
Another leg of my journey coming to a swift close - Bangkok - here I come.

Jeanette tells me our Rubes caught the bus on her own yesterday, although she was a bit tired when she got home but 'Well done our Mam!' I'll try and ring you later before I leave tomorrow.

Not sure when I'll get to the internet so be patient!

Love you!!

Sue xxxxxxxxxxxxx

Wednesday, 23 July 2008

Day in Bandipur

Originally I was only going to stay one night but I'm so glad I stayed 2, as it's given me a full day to explore the village and take a walk in the hills.

I woke at 5am to some bug buzzing in my ear (the room has slatted shutters so they don't keep much wildife out). I ead my book and completed a few suduko puzzles and showered all before 7. Had breakfast with Ami and Pam (the 2 volunteers) and then Nina (the guide) took me on a one and half hour walk of the sights of Bandipur. We visited the old British Parade ground, several temples, the natural spring and also climbed to the highest point where (on a clear day) you can see all the hills and mountains that surround the village. Went back for coffee and some reading then chatted to the girls over lunch. As they had some free time too, we decided to climb to the temple at the top of a very steep hill called Thame Mai. The climb only takes about 30 minutes but the steps and path are almosst 'verical' and again the drops below scary, but the views from the top worth it. We were accompanied by a local dog too. I've been really lucky with both my walks today -No rain!

In the afternoon Ami invited me to help with the drama class at 4pm and I really enjoyed being onvolved again. the 2 of them have only been here 3 days so I helped give them some ideas of the things I'd done in other countries.

There was no view of the mountains this evening, maybe I'll be blessed in the morning.

I'm so glad I made the trip to Bandipur. Ramsarah (the manager) ha been lovely and made sure I have all the things I've needed - the people here again are amazing.

Sights from a Nepali bus

Had cocktails last night at the hotel - they apparently do this on a Sunay so that new guests get to meet each other. It was good and I got talking to another Susan from Australia which was nice, expect I was off on the Monday to Bandipur.

On Monday caught a rickshaw for the 1st time so that I could catch the tourist bus in time - another different experience of Nepali transport.

Again the bus journey took 5 hours instead of 3 and 1/2 but I had a front seat and could see all the sights. I was a little concerned when they placed a large petrol can right next to me but it was moed eofre we set off.

The roads by the Royal Palace were line with soldiers all stood to attention een though there is no longer a king in residence.
I saw the usual exercising in the park and the traffic was as chaotic as ever leaving Kathmandu.

On the way I saw lots more -
1st time I've seen a dog on a lead
A bus was in the middle of the road jacked up on 4 huge tyres
Tree branches and stones are used as a warning sign for oncoming traffic instead of a red triangle
Local men showering at the public showers in their skimpy underwear - yet the women are fully clothed when they shower at the same place.
School children walking along the edge of a busy main road all dressed in their clean school uniforms.

Then we hit a traffic jam and waited for an hour while they cleared the road as 2 cars had overturned. Luckily we have a careful driver so no games of 'chicken' on route.

Arrived at Dumre where you catch the jeep to Bandipur. Had to wait 45 minutes as they like to make sure the jeep is full. Oh and I mean full - 13 people inside plus 2 children, 3 people sat with the driver, 3 on the roof of the driver's cabin, 6 hanging off the back and possibly more on the roof of the jeep itself. It was another steep climb up the mountain and surprise surprise - it started to pour with rain. Managed to book into the Old Inn Bandipur which is like stepping back in time. Had the best coffee ever and then the sun came out and I wandered aroun dthe streets of this 18th century village. I met a couple of people and chatted and then started talking to 2 volunteers who were staying at the same hotel. I also walked part of the way with a Malaysian girl and we went to see one of the temples at the bottom of some steep steps.

While I was just taking in the views, a man came past dragging a dog with it's leg tied by a rope - he rushed past down the hill and the dogs head was just bumping down the path. When he got to the bottom - he clubbed the dog to death - I was horrified and felt helpless in that situation because this is a different country and they certainly do things differently here. When he came back up the hill I asked why he had done this and he said the dog was 'mad' and had bitten someone an the ddog possibly had rabies. It's the 2nd time I've seen a dog killed - 1st time was in Chitwan when the hotel manager was taking me to the elephant breeding. He ran over a dog who was asleep in the road and just didn't stop. It seems there is no regard here for dogs as there are so many strays and yet they take so much care to avoid dthe cows, goats and chickens that wander in and out of the traffic.

Anyway - back to nier things - had dinner at the hotel (Daal/Baht) but with chicken and chilli tomatoes and then spent the evening chatting with Ami (from Scotland) and Pam (from Australia) - 2 volunteers. It was good conversation an so relaxed - I've spoken to so many people here in less than 6 hours.

The room here is quaint with wooden beams and shuttered windows which open out to a view of the mountains. A buddha sits on one of the shelves and the bedside lights are old lanterns. - there's even hot water!.
I'm looking forward to my 2 days here and the walk with the guide on Tuesday.

I've been sitting on the bed just chilling out and looking at the mountain view - Bliss !!

More soon

Love Sue